Post by Mx Life286 on Dec 27, 2005 1:19:33 GMT -5
As your swingarm moves through the full range of suspension travel, your chain adjustment will actually range from slightly loose, to tight, and back to slightly loose again. The chain reaches its tightest point when there suspension is compressed so that there's a straight line between the rear axle, swingarm pivot, and countershaft sprocket. That's why you need to make sure your chain is adjusted correctly for that longest point, and once you've determined what the correct adjustment is, you can just measure it to duplicate it again.
Of course, when you buy a new bike is a good time to figure out that adjustment, and Spencer Bloomer from Kawasaki showed us how to do it.
With a felt tip pen, make marks at the center point of the rear axle and swingarm pivot.
With your bike on a work stand, loosen the rear axle and loop a tie-down around your silencer and the end of the swingarm. Cinch it down until you compress the suspension enough to create the straight line between those three points. You can check this by using the marks you created, along with a tape measure.
Once you've got the suspension set to the right height, adjust the chain so that it's just snug. Roll the wheel to make sure it rolls smoothly. This is also a good time to check and see if you have any tight or loose spots (if you do it's probably time for a new chain and sprockets).
Once you've got it adjusted correctly snug everything down. To ensure that the wheel is aligned correctly in swingarm, Spencer measures from the axle blocks to the rear of the swingarm.
Now you can slowly release the tie-down and remove it. Find a point on the swingarm (like the rear end of the chain buffer) that you can consistently use to measure from, and measure the resulting chain slack. That's the measurement you'll use from now on, and it's far more effective than using the low-tech two or three finger method to check your chain slack. So…unless you have ironclad memory, write it down somewhere.
Use a tie-down to compress the suspension and align the centers of the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. The secondary tip here is that having hot pink tie-downs discourages your friends from stealing them.
Making marks at the center of the rear axle and swingarm pivot make it easier to check alignment.
Using a tape measure helps you align the three points, and lets you know if you need to tighten or loosen the tie-down.
Yep, using a rag or wrench between the top of the chain and sprocket while rolling the wheel backward will make sure that the axle block is snug against the adjuster, but measuring from the axle block to the rear end of the swingarm on each side will make sure that the wheel is aligned correctly.
Once you've adjusted your chain correctly, recording the measurement will help you more easily find the correct chain tension next time around.
Of course, when you buy a new bike is a good time to figure out that adjustment, and Spencer Bloomer from Kawasaki showed us how to do it.
With a felt tip pen, make marks at the center point of the rear axle and swingarm pivot.
With your bike on a work stand, loosen the rear axle and loop a tie-down around your silencer and the end of the swingarm. Cinch it down until you compress the suspension enough to create the straight line between those three points. You can check this by using the marks you created, along with a tape measure.
Once you've got the suspension set to the right height, adjust the chain so that it's just snug. Roll the wheel to make sure it rolls smoothly. This is also a good time to check and see if you have any tight or loose spots (if you do it's probably time for a new chain and sprockets).
Once you've got it adjusted correctly snug everything down. To ensure that the wheel is aligned correctly in swingarm, Spencer measures from the axle blocks to the rear of the swingarm.
Now you can slowly release the tie-down and remove it. Find a point on the swingarm (like the rear end of the chain buffer) that you can consistently use to measure from, and measure the resulting chain slack. That's the measurement you'll use from now on, and it's far more effective than using the low-tech two or three finger method to check your chain slack. So…unless you have ironclad memory, write it down somewhere.
Use a tie-down to compress the suspension and align the centers of the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. The secondary tip here is that having hot pink tie-downs discourages your friends from stealing them.
Making marks at the center of the rear axle and swingarm pivot make it easier to check alignment.
Using a tape measure helps you align the three points, and lets you know if you need to tighten or loosen the tie-down.
Yep, using a rag or wrench between the top of the chain and sprocket while rolling the wheel backward will make sure that the axle block is snug against the adjuster, but measuring from the axle block to the rear end of the swingarm on each side will make sure that the wheel is aligned correctly.
Once you've adjusted your chain correctly, recording the measurement will help you more easily find the correct chain tension next time around.